BOULDER & GOLDEN, COLORADO
amga single pitch instructor exam
April - October
2- Days
Intermediate
$495
Upcoming COURSES
2027 Courses Live!
EXPLORE OUR AMGA PROGRAMMING
DISCOVER
| OVERVIEW |
Smile exceeds the Single Pitch Instructor Exam ratio, set by the AMGA, by offering exams at a four-to-one ratio and this matters— We deeply care about your growth and having the ability for more feedback from your provider and more hands-on practice over the two day exam is one way we show up for new instructors.
Our provider team is made up of career certified guides, business owners, and educators, which gives candidates unique access to deep perspectives within the industry and allows for our programs to educate and also inspire.
Jeffrey Mascaro and Heidi Wirtz are your providers.
Smile's AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam focuses on evaluating climbing instructors to the internationally recognized standard while maintaining a positive learning environment that motivates and inspires the next generation of US instructors.
| GALLERY |
| ITINERARY AND PREP |
Pre-Trip call
Candidates and providers will connect via a video call to meet, discuss gear selection for the exam, talk outlines of each day, and answer any lingering questions.
DAY 1
The SPI assessment is two days and will last approximately nine hours daily.
Technical Components
Goal: Candidates will demonstrate proficiency in technical systems used in single-pitch climbing and should display competence in the following technical skills;
Base-Managed Site:
Rappelling over an edge to the base of a crag
Weighted and un-weighted take-over of belays
Counter-ascend to a stuck climber
Counter-balanced lower with a climber
Top-Managed Site:
3:1 Raise Using an Assisted Braking Device
3:1 Assisted raise using Assisted Braking Device
Releasable rappel set-up, fixing problems on rappel such as stuck
rappel device
Lowering clients
Candidates will show proficiency by completing the SPI Technical Proficiencies Drill. The drill is outlined below for a 1:1 ratio, with one instructor working with one guest.
SPI Top Managed Technical Proficiencies Drill PDF
SPI Top Managed Technical Proficiencies Drill VIDEO
Day 2
This day is candidate-led to facilitate the goals of day two of our SPI exam day. Those goals are to lead traditional routes to the 5.6 movement standard and top-rope routes to the 5.8 movement standard. Our other goals are to provide teaching lessons to our peers and allow candidates to finish displaying any technical skills they may not have been able to demonstrate on day one.
Candidates will also have a chance to demonstrate skills a second time, possibly demonstrating two or three technical skills in a row.
Information on the teaching lesson on day two of the assessment:
Your provider will share your teaching topic on the evening of day one.
Teach to the group. We have climbing experience and are candidates for an SPI exam. Our goal is to learn about your topic as it pertains to us as instructors so that we hopefully have some new tools we can use in the field for our guests.
Your lesson should be no longer than 20 minutes, including time to get the group hands-on with guided practice if that is what you want. Refer to pages 20-21 in the Falcon Guide AMGA Single Pitch Manual, as this will be the basis of how you will be scored.
A good format to follow:
Student-Learning Objective Time of Lesson:
x minutes: Set: Prep students for what they are going to learn
x minutes: Input: Provide the content of the lesson
x minutes: Guided Practice: Work with students to achieve mastery.
x minutes: Evaluation: Test students on their mastery of the subject
Topics may include but are not limited to:
The LNT principles.
Teaching climbing movement.
Overview and evaluation of a proximal anchor with two and three protection points.
Belaying with an MBD and tying off the device.
Overview and evaluation of Monolithic anchors.
Coiling a rope.
Instructional Sport Climbing Anchor set-ups and efficiencies considerations AND how to clean a Sport Climbing Anchor.
Technical Experience
The AMGA SPI Exam requires proficiency in many instructor-specific topics such as professionalism, teaching techniques, risk management, group site organization, climbing site conservation/LNT, and assistance/rescue skills. It is expected that candidates come prepared to make the shift from recreational climber to professional instructor.
Fitness
The AMGA SPI Exam consists of two, nine-hour days in the field with minimal breaks. As an instructor, you are expected to be physically fit for the day of programming and mentally ready to engage with a group of exam candidates in various weather conditions and at various crag locations.
TOP MANAGED SYSTEMS DAY TWO
PROVIDER, BRENT SMITH
| WHATS INCLUDED |
- Dynamic and static ropes
- AMGA certified guides/ SPI providers
- Personal instructor gear: lockers, belay device, helmets, cams, etc
- Snacks/food
- Transportation to the venue
ANCHOR BUILDING DAY ONE
MINI FRICTION HITCH LESSON
| PRICING DETAILS |
BOULDER & GOLDEN, COLORADO
AMGA single pitch instructor exam
April- October
2- Days
Intermediate
$495 Per Guest
Upcoming TripS
2027 Courses Live!
| QUESTIONS |
AMGA Single pitch instructor exam.
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Smile focuses on small groups and ratios that meet/exceed the professional standards of mountain guiding. This program has a 4:1 ratio, with up to eight candidates and two providers.
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Prerequisites
Candidates meet the SPI Exam prerequisites if they:
Course completion
Have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course within the past two years.
For SPI recertification candidates, certification must be current or within one year of expiration.
Traditionally led climbing experience
Have traditionally led a minimum of 40 rock climbing routes, including:At least 15 routes completed after the candidate’s most recent SPI program (course or exam)
At least 5 top-managed routes
Post-program instructional climbing as outlined below:
SPI Course graduates: of the 15 post-program routes, at least 5 must be mock instruction
SPI recertification candidates: of the 15 post-program routes, at least 5 must be mock or paid instruction
Leading ability (demonstrated during the exam)
Be capable of comfortably lead climbing (leader placing their own protection) on any 5.6 traditional route.
Candidates will demonstrate their leading ability on a variety of routes during the assessment.
Top-rope climbing ability (demonstrated during the exam)
Be capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 on top rope.
Candidates will demonstrate top-rope climbing ability during the assessment.
Experience Considerations & Resume Notes
The following items clarify how route experience is evaluated and what constitutes a complete SPI Exam resume:
Candidates are strongly encouraged to have substantial experience at the 5.6 grade and above, and to have climbed in varied locations and on a variety of rock types, as this breadth of experience supports success during the SPI Exam.
Multi-pitch routes may be included; however, each multi-pitch climb counts as one route, regardless of the number of pitches. The requirement is 40 routes, not 40 pitches.
All routes must be led clean by the candidate.
Routes must have been completed within four years of the SPI Exam date.
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As an AMGA SPI course candidate, you should come prepared with the gear you will need to work in the single-pitch environment of your program.
Although this is a “course”, these programs are designed for climbing instructors and imply you have most of your gear. All gear is outlined in the AMGA Candidate Handbook.
Dynamic and static ropes can be provided with advanced notice if you are flying for the course and can not accommodate these items in your luggage.
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Please click here to review our domestic cancellation policy.
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We will base in Boulder, Colorado for the first two days of the course and then Golden, Colorado on day three. There’s National Forest land about four miles up Boulder Canyon Rd (where days one and two will be held), where you can pull off car camp.
It is hard to find camping in the Colorado Front Range. We recommend connecting with other candidates for AirBnB options in town to lower costs.
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Please email:
jeff@smilemountainguides.com for more information about this course or any AMGA SPI program questions.