AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam
AMGA
Single Pitch
Instructor
Exam
$495 Per Person
Advanced
Boulder & Golden, Colorado
2-Days (18 hours)
Smile's AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam focuses on evaluating climbing instructors to the internationally recognized standard while maintaining a positive learning environment that continually motivates and inspires the next generation of US instructors.
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Prerequisites from the AMGA Website:
+You are a current member of the AMGA.
+You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course within the past 2 years. For those renewing, their SPI certification must be valid or within 1 year expiration.
+You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types.
+You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes, which means you place protection.
+You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.
The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (3-6 months).
You do not need First Aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.
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Smile's AMGA SPI Exam focuses on evaluating single-pitch climbing instructors to the internationally recognized standard while maintaining a learning environment of continually motivating and inspiring the next generation of US instructors.
Single Pitch Instructor certification is the second stage of the AMGA’s Climbing Instructor Certification Program and will significantly help candidates who wish to work toward the next stage, the AMGA Rock Guide Course (RGC). The SPI course presents many instructor-specific topics such as professionalism, teaching techniques, risk management, group site organization, climbing site conservation/LNT, and assistance/rescue skills.
The SPI Program is a three-day (27 hour) training course and a separate two-day (16 hour) assessment.
Certification is valid for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years, current SPIs can re-take the SPI Assessment to renew SPI certification. Any current SPI who attains certification in any Mountain Guide Program discipline attains permanent SPI certification status provided they maintain AMGA membership and the appropriate level of emergency medical certification.
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SPI Exam Itinerary – Location Boulder Canyon and Golden, CO
Day 1 – 8:00 am-5:00 pm
Our SPI exam will start with a morning guides meeting led by SMG, with a focus on covering the expectations of the exam and providing space for candidates to ask questions about any exam-related topics.
Our exam day typically focuses on mini “real world” events designed to showcase the necessary skills of a single pitch instructor.
The tasks observed are:
+Candidate leads in the terrain
+Disparate and Proximal anchoring
+Climber assists from a base-managed position
+Climber assists from a top-managed position
Day 2 – 8:00 am- 5:00 pm
With the support from other candidates, each instructor will have the opportunity to showcase their abilities to take on a lead and supporting instructor role.
Candidates will be expected to facilitate the goals of the day, in a concise and educational package, focusing on continued demonstration of teaching and technical skills using scenarios that may require multiple skills to be incorporated into a given task. This is a day of work where guests are your coursemates.
EXAM CATEGORIES
+Risk Management
+Client Care
+Technical Systems
+Application
+Terrain Assessment
+Movement Skills
+Mountain Sense
+Professionalism
+Instructional Technique
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FOOTWEAR
+Socks
UPPER LAYERS
+Synthetic T-shirt
BOTTOM LAYERS
BACKPACKS
+35-45 L Guide Crag Pack
ACCESSORIES
+Sunglasses, Sunscreen, Lip Balm, Sun Hat
+Nalgene, Minimum 1.5L
+Climbing Snacks: 100 calories an hour!
+ Buff
EQUIPMENT
Guide Protection Kit:
+Camelots: Singles from .3-3, Black Diamond
+Stoppers: Singles from #7-11, Black Diamond
+Alpine Draws: 6 Shoulder Lengths, One Carabiner
Guide Personal Equipment Kit:
+5 HMS Locking Carabiners (minimum)
+120cm Sewn Sling
+18’ cordelette, 7mm Nylon or Tech Cords Only
Guide Ropes:
+30m (or longer) Static Rigging Line
Bringing any personal climbing gear you have from the above list is encouraged, group gear can be provided by Smile Mountain Guides.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE AMGA SPI EXAM
Technical Experience
The AMGA SPI Exam requires proficiency in many instructor-specific topics such as professionalism, teaching techniques, risk management, group site organization, climbing site conservation/LNT, and assistance/rescue skills. It is expected that candidates come prepared to make the shift from recreational climber to profressional instructor.
Fitness
The AMGA SPI Exam consists of two, nine-hour days in the field with minimal breaks. As an instructor, you are expected to be physically fit for the day of programming and mentally ready to engage with a group of exam candidates in various weather conditions and at various crag locations.
Meet The Team
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![A smiling man wearing a red jacket, a cap, and sunglasses, sitting outdoors with a rocky mountainous background, in black and white except for the man.]()
Jeffrey Mascaro
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![A woman with blonde hair wearing sunglasses, a red tank top, and a climbing harness with blue climbing ropes draped around her neck, smiling outdoors with a black and white mountain landscape in the background.]()
Heidi Wirtz
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![A man with a beard and mustache smiling, wearing a red Arc'teryx jacket with logos, a black and teal cap, standing in front of a gray rock background.]()
Mike O'Connor
FAQ’s
Single Pitch Instructor Exam
The answers to our most commonly asked questions about climbing Single Pitch Instructor Exam.
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As an AMGA SPI exam candidate, you should come prepared with the gear you will need to work in the single-pitch environment of your exam. Gear such as static ropes can be provided with advanced notice if you are traveling for the course and can not accommodate this item in your luggage.
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Smile’s AMGA SPI course and exam have a maximum 4:1 ratio and take a total of 8 students in both the course and exam.
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Please click here to review our domestic cancellation policy.